Category: Lessons Learned

A First Look At Color Grading

A First Look At Color Grading

I’ve been thinking about “Color Grading” a lot lately. Anyone processing photos digitally has so many people giving their opinions on to color grade your images that it can be very confusing about the way to get the best from your still images. The movie industry is the origin of the color grading where it involves a lot of technical terms like Log, S-Log and other things that I have no clue of their meaning. In a movie you use color grading to link the parts of a story by creating an overall feel by using consistent colors to different parts of a movie or to reinforce the images on the screen. For more information on color grading in movies start with this video: Why are Films Shot In Two Colors?

Sunset with Blue Sky

I’d like to put that at the far end of the workflow of developing an image. There are a lot of things you can or should do before you get to that final color grade step. If you do them correctly then you may not need to spend any time at all fixing the color in you images.

The first step you should take is to make sure you monitors are calibrated. Use any of the available hardware tools for to get the color right before you start. I use the Datacolor Spyder X Pro. If you don’t get the colors that you are seeing right then you have no chance of getting them right when you are adjusting them.

All the discussion below assumes that fact that you are shooting in raw for whatever camera system you are using. If you don’t shoot raw then any other discussion about color or color grading is moot as the camera has already decided what you image is going to look like.

Next is using a good color profile for your image. You can start with the color profiles you camera manufacturer provides with each camera. The processed jpg image you see on the back of you camera using one of the profiles that you manufacturer has provided. Standard, Landscape, and Vivid are some of the profiles provided. (Hint: set your camera to Vivid when shooting sunsets). Current versions of Lightroom and Capture One can be set to use the camera profile when importing you images. If you are using Lightroom you may need to explore beyond the standard Adobe Color profile that Lightroom applies as a default. There are a number of other profiles that Adobe provides that may enhance your image.

And then there is color temperature. Getting the white balance right is so important. Cameras today do a pretty good job of getting the white balance correct. Having a correct white balance means that your other colors will look right too. I find it interesting that most of the time I watch someone else process an image they tend to want to “warm the image up a bit”. Cameras may just be leaning a little to the cool side.

If you, like me, is using a Fujifilm Trans-X camara there are a number of film simulations that are provided as profiles you can use. The film simulation that you have your camera set to will be used by Lightroom or Capture One to process the raw files when they are imported. You can also change the profile after import if you find a profile that works better for a particular image.

If you have picked the profile that pleases you then normally you won’t need to do a lot of saturation adjustments. Although it doesn’t hurt to see what the saturation slider does to the image. I’ll leave you to adjusting the contrast, white and black points, clarity, and other such things for another time.

The big thing for me is that if I’ve applied a Fujifilm film simulation to an image I’ve already chosen how I want my image color graded. So I don’t do a lot of further color processing on my images. For the above “Sunset with Blue Sky” image I used the Fujifilm Provia simulation and just lightened and saturated the blues a bit. Other than that it is the sunset I saw that day. It was a great day for sunset images.

Capturing Neowise (with nothing but our wits and our series 7 de-atomizers)

Capturing Neowise (with nothing but our wits and our series 7 de-atomizers)

Everyone seems to have gotten great images of the comet Neowise, everyone but me. From others images it looked like it was very bright and high in the sky and that anyone with a point and shoot could have gotten a good image of it. Not so much. So the question is how much persistence do you put into getting a shot. I had a number of challenges that I had to overcome to get an image.

Neowise

You may have to click on the image to see all the stars that are in this shot along with Neowise. When I exposed this image I could not even see Polaris (the Big Dipper). Has a lot to do with the street lamps in my area. That and that due east (this shot was facing northwest) is a sports complex with about 15 baseball fields all lit up for some summer night games.

I shot this on my Fuji X-T2 with the XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS lens open to F4 and an 8 second exposure. ISO was 3200. I used a compass to get to the proper orientation for the shot. The time stamp on the camera was 9:35pm so it was about 45 to 50 minutes after sunset.

It can be really easy to get flustered and miss shots when things are not perfect. If we could only take pictures of the comet in the studio. So it take a focus (pun not intended) to keep after the shot until you get it. I may just go out tonight and see if I can get a better image with a different lens. I could have used my XF 16-55mm F2.8 R lens (above was shot at 17.5mm) and see what the extra stop affords me. Same image would be 4 seconds at 3200 ISO or 8 seconds at 1600 ISO. Of course there is alway the chance that the clouds here in Florida will move in and obscure the sky.

Moral of the story is to be persistent. Use you knowledge of your camera and photography. And learn a thing or two along the way to getting an image.

Note in passing: the XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS is on sale at Amazon (at the time of this article for $300 off which is a really good price. Not sure how long that will last.

Working Hard On An Image, Persian Shield (Strobilanthes dyeriana)

Working Hard On An Image, Persian Shield (Strobilanthes dyeriana)

The wife has been adding plants to the back yard. One is this Persian Shield (Strobilanthes dyeriana) which has striking purple colors. I’ve been fighting with images of this plant for two days trying to get an image I like.

Persian Shield (Strobilanthes dyeriana)

I think I finally found an image which I am happy with although I just went out with a different lens to try some other views of the plant. I think I’ll wait until tomorrow to process the new images. This image was shot on the Fujifilm X-T2 and the XF 80mm F2.8 Macro. Sometimes you have to work then rework images to get what you want. And sometimes it’s best if you leave it for a bit then come back to it. Sometimes you just need to say no.

Just A Kit Lens (Not)

Just A Kit Lens (Not)

You can usually spend a lot of money on more and more lenses as you progress as a photographer. But sometimes you forget the good things you have, like the kit lens you bought when you first bought into a camera brand. In my case it was the Fujifilm X series and the lens was their Fujinon XF18-55mmF2.8-4 R LM OIS. It is a really good lens and probably should not have had the “kit” nomenclature.

I purchased the lens along with the Fujifilm X-T1 in June of 2014. So I’ve had it 6 years. Lately it was mostly gathering dust on the shelf as I was using mostly Fujifilm’s profession lenses. I have the Fujinon XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR as my go to lens for everyday shooting. Nice and sharp, constant F2.8, basically the equivalent of the standard 24mm-70mm full frame lens.

Recently, I ended up getting a preview entry to Universal Studios just before they opened to the general public. A test run with annual pass holders. Didn’t have any real problems during the day.

Biggest question was which lens to bring as the whole trip was more about making pictures than riding rides. If I’m going to the parks and its going to get dark then I will probably take my 35mm F1.4 lens just for the extra stop of light. Since this was going to be all daylight, i would have normally taken the XF16-55mmF2.8. The drawback of that lens is by itself it weighs in at 1.4 pounds. The XF18-55mmF2.8-4 on the other hand is just 0.7 pounds. Since the trip would all be in daylight and wide open apertures were not going to be needed (even if the difference at full extension was F4 instead of F2.8). I was not planning on taking more than one lens so I put the XF18-55mmF2.8-4 on my X-T2 and ventured out in to the pandemic’ed world.

With the lighter lens it was a little easier to carry and I have to say produced some nice sharp images.

Above is a crop of the image and if you click and enlarge you will see that there is nothing wrong with the sharpness of that lens.

So maybe it’s time to revisit you “kit” lenses and see what they can still do.

The image was process in Capture One 20 Pro.

Lightroom Classic Update Enhanced Details and My Fujifilm X-T2

Lightroom Classic Update Enhanced Details and My Fujifilm X-T2

As a subscriber I get all the latest updates to Lightroom and Photoshop when they are released. My curiosity was definitely piqued with the new feature “Enhanced Details”, which specifically promised image gains for the Fuji X-Trans sensors. I put it to the test.

Basic raw file with Adobe Color profile applied and no other corrections.

I put this image to the Enhance Detail processor and after several minutes this is the result I got.

Image with Enhance Detail applied.

Not very impressive if you ask me. Not sure what is going on. As a software developer i came up with several reasons why the image was not “Enhanced”.

  1. The process may not work with the version of the OS I use. I am running on an older (2011) iMac 27″ with the High Sierra OS version with 32gig of ram
  2. The process might not work with the Fujifilm X-T2 (using the latest software).
  3. I eliminated the possibility of corrections added to the raw file might cause the issues by creating a virtual copy and clicking on the reset.
  4. It might be a software issue. (Notice this is last on the list.)

So this is the final image with corrections and cropping applied without any “Enhanced Details”

Ready for My Closeup

Either I am not ready for prime time or the Enhanced Detail feature is not.

Leaving the Dark Side or Working With Flash (the Dumb Photographer version)

Leaving the Dark Side or Working With Flash (the Dumb Photographer version)

I’ve been experimenting with a number of bright colored 12″ x 12″ sheets of paper that I picked up a while ago (at Michaels I think). Using flash with my FujiFilm X-T2. I was getting quite a bit of fall off from my flash from one side to the other of these small area images. At first I though I was just being bit by the inverse square rule. I thought it was a bit extreme but that was my first guess.

Then I realized that the fall off was not coming from the side away from the light but was consistently at the bottom of the frame. See shadows below to for light direction.

Light fall out = Fujifilm X-T2 XF 80mm 1:2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro

I tried adding reflectors to the dark side but still had the falloff. I could correct the images in post with a graduated filter to open the area. But it was not a perfect solution so I resorted to my, “when all else fails covert to black and white” (let’s hear it for Fuji’s ACROS simulation).

ACROS black and white conversion which looks nice even if you can see a bit of the fall off in the lower corners.

Frustrated I started out this morning trying one more time to try an figure out what was going on. The images were shot at less the the Fujifilm X-T2 maximum shutter speed so I dismissed it being caused by the shutter being set higher than the X-T2 maximum sync speed of the 1/250th of a second, above which the shutter is not open long enough to get all the image. The top image was shot at 1/60th of a second so it couldn’t be an issue with the focal plane shutter not being open long enough.

I change to front camera sync to have the flash fire at the beginning of the shutter opening and magically the falloff went a way.

Except it was. After a few more unsuccessful attemps this morning i realize that I had the flash set to rear curtain sync on the X-T2 which meant that the flash was not fired until the shutter was about to close. In fact at shorter shutter speeds the light was just not getting to the bottom of the frame.

With Scissors – Fujifilm X-T2 XF 80mm 1:2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro

Moral of the story is once again make sure you know all the setting of your camera and if the image is not turning out the way you like it, it’s probably your fault.


Well Laid Plan (Take 2378)

Well Laid Plan (Take 2378)

After traveling across state to see the opening of the Moose Peterson exhibit at the Gallery at KelbyOne I planned a stop off at Epcot to take in the annual Flower and Garden Festival on the way home. I always take my XF 16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR lens and I needed to take another lens to get some images of Flowers and some of the butterflies. I didn’t want to take too may lenses as carrying multiple lenses around is hard on several of one’s body parts. So I came up with the idea of taking my XF 50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR lens as it would give me more reach to get closer to the floral and insect subjects that were on display. I thought it would be a good lens to get closer to my subjects.

In The Butterfly House = Fujifilm X-T2 XF 50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR ISO 250 F/5.6 1/125sec 140mm

Trouble is that the XV 50-140mm does not have that close a focusing range so you have to stay back from you subject to grab focus. I also ended up shooting at 1/125 of a second at 140mm when I should have been at 1/250 at least with the 140mm focal length of the lens. I did get a pretty sharp image but could have done better.

It was only after I got home and grumbled about the number of out of focus images (from being too close) that I remembered I had the perfect lens for that type of work and I left it home. What I should have done is take the XF 80mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro lens. It would have been perfect for the images I wanted to take. I really need to be a bit more thorough when making lens selections. Oh well, there is always next time.

Almost Convinced

Almost Convinced

When the Fujifilm Classic Chrome film simulation was originally released a lot of people thought it was about the best thing since sliced bread. As soon as I purchased my X-T2 I tried it and was basically underwhelmed. To me the contrast in the shadows was to harsh and the blues of the Florida sky was way to green with the profile applied. Lately though I’ve found that there are some images that look pretty good with Classic Chrome applied. This is one of them.

Chandelier – Fujifilm X-T2 XF 16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR ISO 500 F4.0 1/125 sec at 31.1 mm

The color is quite subdued.  This really looks good as a print on matte paper. I guess I’ll try using it a bit more.

Soon I will post on how to apply the ACROS profile to Fujifilm X-T1 raw images (hint: using Capture One Pro 11)

Images shot with Fujifilm X-T2 and XF 16-55mm F/2.8 R LM WR


Feather (The megapixel conundrum part two)

Feather (The megapixel conundrum part two)

Feather Fujifilm X-T2 XF 60mm R Macro ISO 332 1/125 sec at f / 5.6

 

And then there are some images that just surprise you with the detail you can get by having the Fujifilm X-T2 24mp sensor. I shot this image with available light out on the patio yesterday. First glance was not exciting. I then converted to black and white by applying the ACROS+G Filter in Lightroom Camera Profile. I used a bit of Nik by Google Color Effect Pro 4 (it still works for me and so I will still use it). There is detail in them there megapixels!  Click for a full sized jpeg at 4.3mp.

 

 

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